Hi
I need space
So I want to sell my '79 Gamma Coupé 2500
It has rusty, but complete except back window
If anyone interested
Please send private message
Or WhatsApp at +34650111152
It is in Vigo (Spain)

Thanks

My photos from the event at http://www.thotos.epizy.com/photo-gallery/GCM2023-WebAlbum/index.html

Click on any of the small photos to enlarge and start a slideshow.

Hi Theo thanks for the reply i took the old caliber apart today and the thread on the piston is in places flat so  i think this is the issue  las luck would have it i have a pair of spare callipers so stripped the spare and the piston thread were really good so replaced the seals as i had a kit anyway and rebuilt so will fit tomorrow.  It did say in the manual to rotate piston 45 degrees but did not say why, and did not tell you to push piston back in without rotating it but we live and learn thanks for the information, on the automatic gearbox i asked about i eventually fitted a spare box that came with the car and it worked really well so happy with that, just the calliper a mot test to go and i am away.

No! You don't twist and push. That may damage the handbrake rod thread and the handbreak will not work. It may be that you've already damaged the thread which is why your handbrake doesn't work. If that is the case, you'll need new pistons for the rear callipers. When changing rear pads, you need to twist the piston by 45 degrees. This releases the threaded rod behind the piston from the handbrake mechanism. Then push the piston without twisting. Once all the way in, turn the piston 45 degrees back to its normal position. The bump on the back of the new pads (assuming you have the proper Gamma pads) will fit in the slot on the piston. Then adjust the handbreak cable and pull the handbreak several times to check that it works and to move the piston out. If you need new pistons, try Bigg Red (https://www.biggred.co.uk/). They used to stock them but |I'm not sure if they still do.

Hi I've looked in the concise repair manual but cannot find much info on setting up the handbrake after replacing the rear pads i assume after loosening of the handbrake cable and taking out old pads  you push and rotate at the same time  the piston back into the calliper then install new pads refit calliper and pump the brake pedal up to adjust the piston, reconnect cable and adjust using the square ended rod on underside which is attached to the lever? is this correct or is there another way to do this as I've done this and the handbrake is fine for the first couples of application then it just goes loose and if i operate the levers on the callipers the n/s hardly has  any movement and applies the brake but the o/s has  loads of movement   but does not operate the brake maybe a caliber fault within the adjusting mechanism inside the caliper/ any ideas

Hi Keri,

I'm still looking for a set of injectors, the Bosch part number is 0280 150 151 as depicted in a previous post.  I have tried BMW, Citroen, Opel & Bosch to obtain new replacement injectors but none of these supply new injectors any longer. 

I'd be interested in purchasing your injectors if your interested in selling them; let me know.

If anyone knows of a firm that will recondition petrol injectors I have a set that I would like to get repaired; I've tried to source such a firm in Northern Ireland but there doesn't seem to be any that will recondition petrol injectors (they're all happy to work on diesel injectors, but not petrol ones).

Regards,
Noel

Thank you both for your further postings to this thread and especially to 'neromoto' for all the images he kindly provided. And my apologies to him for not appreciating that he is our Japanese correspondent!

I tried Theo's suggestion of multiple depressions of the air distribution control buttons so as to fully dissipate any residual stored vacuum, but to no avail. The temperature control slider remained firmly stuck in place at a position towards the 'cold' end of its travel (albeit not at the extreme left position depressing the 'STOP' button would ordinarily send it to).

I will be passing this over to my mechanic to look at, but I'm sure he will find all the input on this thread very helpful, so thank you both again.

Parts list

Hello Peter,

Since the buttons other than the stop button don't work and the lever is locked in cold (as it should be once the stop button is pressed) I suspect you have a vacuum problem.

Press all buttons several times WITH THE ENGINE OFF so it's not producing vacuum or disconnect the vacuum pipe from the accumulator. Once you've emptied any accumulated vacuum, try moving the temperature lever. If it moves then your problkem is certainly with the vacuum system and not a mechanical one. Assuming it is a vacuum problem, first think to check is the multi-pipe connector on the back of the control unit. This has a metal clip holding it in place on my car which is not shown in the photo below. If the multi-pipe connector is tightly in place, you must have a vacuum leak from one of the pipes, a split diaphragn in one of the control valves or a faulty heater control unit.

Hi Peter, how are you?
I use translation software, so I apologise if my English is inappropriate.
Unfortunately there is no Japanese manual, so I am using English, German and Italian documents.
Now, I checked my car just to be sure.
My Berliner had not been run for several weeks. First of all, I moved the temperature control lever before starting the engine, and it moves smoothly from side to side.
The vacuum tank is not under negative vacuum pressure because the engine has not been running for a long period of time.
Starting the engine I check the temperature control lever again and it does not move (STOP positionn).
'The lever moves smoothly when I put it in the RISC position.
Assuming that the cable is not the cause.
1. pull out the hose from the vacuum tank, release the negative pressure and check if the lever moves.
2. if the lever does not move, the actuator, check valve or hose may be blocked. Alternatively, the switching device in the controller may be broken.
3. remove the control unit, unplug the vacuum connector (No. 54) on the back side and check if the lever moves. If it moves, the actuator is normal. The controller may not be switched. If the lever does not move, the actuator or valve may be faulty.
4. It is unlikely that the cable itself is sticking. To check the cable, you have to disconnect the actuator side of the cable, which is a hassle.

I am not sure if my idea is correct. Can anyone give me some advice on this?