Last day for Earlybird tickets!

Hi Theo don't look like i can repair switch what are the differences between the 2 switches? and how much to purchase a  from the club 
thanks
Keri

It is quite common to find the connections in the
junction plug have overheated and this causes
poor conductivity.
 

Hi Theo
thanks again for the picture and information i will remove the switch at the week end and see if i can fix it as not only does it not feed the blue/green it also now won't feed the red for the starter motor but will see if it can be fixed if not i will compare it to the pictures and let you know.
thanks again for all your help

Hello Keri,

It sounds as if someone has changed the wiring on your car to overcome a problem which is why the pump was running as soon as you turned the ignition on. But I also don't understand the problem you have with the ignition switch. If part of it works but part of it doesn't, I would use a relay to switch the non-working circuit(s) with the working one. The ignition switch can be removed from the barrel and cleaned (or repaired) but I seem to remember that there are two different type of ignition barrels. We have a couple in the Consortium but last time we sent one we were told "it doesn't fit". So you might be better off repairing the one you have.

Hi Theo thanks for all the information and with the help of the system descriptions and wiring charts i was able to make some ground what i found was i had no power to fuse 8 from green/black wire from ignition switch which also goes to fuel pump double relay switch and also as you recall mine primed with ignition switched on this was because when i went to the ignition switch to check a wire was linked across from the blue/black wire  to another  wire which went to the to the pump relay, so i disconnected the switch and on the car loom side connected a wire to the   brown wire which is live feed to switch  then bridged this wire to blue /black this gave me ignition lights but no pump prime heard then connected  another live to green/blue and finally connected another live to red wire to starter  and she fired straight up  and ran great so after all this it appears to be the ignition switch but can't remember if the with can be removed from barrel and stripped and checked or if i need to find a replacement  switch do the club have any switches?

Another very successful January/Winter lunch with 15 people attending and 7 Gammas (plus a couple of 'other' cars).
The meeting was enjoyed so much by all present that many said "why don’t we have a Summer lunch meeting too?" After a short discussion, a plan started to emerge for a Summer Barbeque in June, possibly 25th of June. Watch this space....

Your hearing must be much better than mine if you can hear the injectors Keri! Then again I am an old man so maybe my hearing is bad but the only timne I can hear an injector 'click' is if I put 12 volts to it (which I do to check the injector and it's also good at cleaning small gummy deposits). The way I've always checked injectors is by taking them out and cranking the engine with the injectors over a glass jar. It's easy to take the injectors as it's just two bolts per pair of injectors. I presume you have checked that you have a nice stong spark first though?

Hi Theo you are to the rescue again the information you have sent is just what i need I've checked quickly what you said and yes with ignition on if i move the air flow meter vane the pump operates was it should but i still get no power to injectors when throttle is operated so looking at circuit  from starter to relay as maybe this relay also maybe powers ecu to operate injectors but one step at a time will let you know how i get on
thanks again

You'll find a fuel injection manual for the Gamma at http://lanciagammaconsortium.info/smf1021/index.php/topic,156.0.html

But what you say doesn't seem right to me! The Gamma fuel injection system does not prime when the ignition is turned on; or at least it doesn't normally. If you could hear the pump running as soon as you turn the ignition on, theen either there's a fault or someone has changed things to overcome a problem somewhere else.

Power to the fuel pump in the Gamma is controlled by the double-relay. The fuse to the fuel pump is not in the fuse box but an in-line fuse hidden underneath the radiator expansion tank. The fuse connections often fail due to spilled water either expelled from the header tank when the engine gets too hot or by spilling it when refilling the system. So first thing to check is this fuse and its connections.

The double-relay has two functions, hence why it's double. First part is energised by a feed from the starter solenoid so that the fuel pump runs while cranking the engine. Once the engine has started and there's no power from the starter, power to the second part of the relay is via a micro-switch in the air metering box. When the engine is running the flap in the metering unit is opened by the air being sucked in by the engine and a switch connected to the air metering flap keeps the fuel pump running.

So first thing to check is the fuse under the expansion tank. If that's ok, then remove the bellows pipe from the air metering unit to the air filter housing so you can reach the air flap in the box. With the ignition on, move the flap with your finger or suitable stick and you should hear the whoosh of the fuel in the pipes and the pump going. If you still don't hear anything, then I'd suspect the pump. Put a voltmeter across the pump to see if it has power.